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How to Install Stair Nosings and Floor Trims

CAT Flooring Accessories > How to Install Stair Nosings and Floor Trims

Contents:

The Right Preparation: The Foundation of a Flawless Install

Preparation of the subfloor is always the first step when installing new flooring, flooring trims or stair nosings. There are many different subfloor types such as concrete and wood, and each requires its own assessment.

Concrete

Its porous nature can lead to moisture issues that may damage flooring installed on top.

Wood

Plywood, OSB or planks require checks focused on stability and moisture.

For a secure and professional installation, this work should be carried out by a qualified flooring contractor.

Mastering the Methods: Drilling, Adhesion, and Fastening

The profile and subfloor type determine the installation method. Some applications use self-adhesive systems, while others require mechanical fixing depending on the type of floor trim or stair nosing being installed.

Stick-FixTM Double-Sided Adhesive Tape (Pre-Applied Adhesive Fixing)

This method is known for its speed and ease of installation, suitable for lighter-duty applications or specific circumstances, such as quiet overnight installation.

Tools Needed:

Tape measure, hand roller, degreaser/cleaner

This method is often used for lighter-duty or pre-prepared flooring trims where speed of installation is important.

How to Do It (Step-by-Step for Professionals):

  1. Preparation is Key: This is the most critical step for this method. The substrate and the underside of the profile must be perfectly clean, dry, and free of any dust, oil, or debris. Any contamination will severely compromise the bond.
  2. Tape: Profiles are supplied with pre-applied Stick-FixTM
  3. Position the Profile: Carefully peel off the protective backing from the tape. Accurately position the floor trim, as the bond is instantaneous, and re-positioning is not possible.
  4. Secure: Apply firm, even pressure along the entire length of the profile with a hand roller. Press down particularly hard on the edges to ensure a strong, long-lasting bond.

Drilled for Countersunk Screws (Pre-Drilled Solid Stair Nosings & Floor Trims)

This is the most common and robust mechanical fixing method, providing unparalleled security and a straightforward installation process.

Tools Needed:

Electric Drill/Hammer Drill, Drill Bit Set, Screwdriver/Drill Driver, Adhesive.

How to Do It (Step-by-Step for Professionals):

  1. Preparation: As with all methods, the substrate must be clean, dry, and level.
  2. Dry Fit and Mark: Position the pre-drilled profile and mark the locations for the drill holes.
  3. Drill: Remove the profile and drill the marked holes to the appropriate depth. Insert plugs for concrete or masonry substrates.
  4. Apply Adhesive: Apply a bead of adhesive to the underside of the profile. A professional tip is to leave a 15mm margin from the edge to prevent squeeze-out when the screws are tightened. Applying adhesive prevents the profiles from “rattling” and ensures the most secure fixing when choosing mechanical installation.
  5. Fasten: Align the profile and screw it down. Tighten the screws until the head is slightly below the countersunk hole.
  6. Final Checks: Conduct a final inspection to ensure the screw heads are flush, and the profile is secure, and free of any movement.

Drilled for Concealing Plugs (Pre-Drilled Stair Nosings with factory-bonded PVC infill)

This method is highly valued by architects and contractors for its clean, professional finish and secure mechanical fixing.

Tools Needed:

Electric Drill, Drill Bit Set, Hand Roller, Screwdriver/Drill Driver, Adhesive and Plastic Plugs.

How to Do It (Step-by-Step for Professionals):

  1. Preparation: Ensure the area is sound, level, and thoroughly cleaned. Any unevenness in the substrate will cause the profile to rock and can lead to failure.
  2. Dry Fit and Mark: Place the pre-drilled profile on the step and use the holes as a template to mark the exact drilling locations on the substrate with a pencil or marker.
  3. Drill: Remove the profile and drill the marked holes. For concrete, use the hammer-drill function and a masonry bit. For wood, use a standard drill function and a pilot bit to prevent splitting. Ensure the hole depth is correct for the plugs.


  4. Clean and Apply Adhesive: Vacuum any drill dust from the holes and the step. Apply a continuous bead of high-strength adhesive to the underside of the profile, avoiding the screw holes to prevent a messy squeeze-out.
  5. Position and Secure: Carefully align the profile with the drilled holes and press it down firmly. Insert the screws and tighten them, being careful not to over-tighten and warp the profile.
  6. Conceal: Once the profile is securely fastened, press the matching concealing plugs into the countersunk screw holes in the PVC infill until they are flush with the surface.

Drilled for Retrofit (Retrofit: Pre-Drilled Stair Nosings, Cover Plates and Ramps with infills supplied loose)

This method is a smart solution for refurbishments, particularly for contractors who need to replace the insert without removing the entire nosing.

Tools Needed:

Electric Drill/Screwdriver, Drill Bits, Utility Knife, Tape Measure, Hand Roller, Plastic Plugs, Adhesive and Degreaser/Cleaner.

How to Do It (Step-by-Step for Professionals):

  1. Preparation: Ensure the area is sound, level, and thoroughly cleaned.
  2. Drill: Fit the profile to the area to mark off the position of the holes. Drill according to the substrate: pilot holes in timber, holes for plastic plugs in solid surfaces.
  3. Apply Adhesive: Apply two or three beads of adhesive to the underside of the profile then reposition onto the area aligning the holes in the profile with holes.
  4. Insert the Infill: Starting at one end, carefully peel back the protective paper from the adhesive on the infill and press the infill into the channel. Critical Note: Do not stretch the infill, as it may shrink back over time, leave a gap and distorting metal infills might lead to them not fitting in the channel.
  5. Secure: Use a hand roller to apply firm, even pressure along the entire length of the infill, ensuring full contact with the adhesive and expelling any trapped air. Ensure the screw heads are flush or slightly lower than the countersunk holes.

Considering the “What Ifs”: Addressing Complex Scenarios

Not all projects are going to be straight forward, some projects will require curved nosings or bespoke floor trims.

Bespoke nosings and floor trims typically start with a custom template in hardboard or similar rigid material that is used to form the profile into the correct shape for easy and fast onsite fitting. Our team of specialist fabricators can curve or create the perfect profile to fit the shape and dimensions you are looking for.

Curving and Fabrication:

Curved Nosing

Curved stair nosing formed to the template.

Mitres

Mitres for cutting in on-site where welded mitres are not suitable.

Mitred and Welded

Mitred and welded returns are often used on treads in historical buildings where there are treads of differing size, including theatres and public buildings.

Capped Ends

Capped ends can be produced on the end of stair nosings where there is an open string for aesthetic reasons.

High-Moisture and High-Humidity Areas

When dealing with environments like kitchens, or outdoor spaces, moisture is a primary concern. The key is to select materials and methods that prevent water from compromising the installation.

Waterproof Adhesives: Use waterproof adhesives, that are formulated for wet or submerged applications. These create a watertight seal and maintain a strong bond even when exposed to continuous moisture.

CAT recommends STYCCOFLEX:

In humid environments, the substrate and flooring materials will expand and contract. This can put stress on the profile. Ensure the installation allows for this movement, which may involve leaving small gaps or using flexible adhesives.

Brass and Aluminium profiles will oxidise faster in humid and/or wet environments.  

High-Traffic and Heavy-Load Environments

While not an environmental factor in the traditional sense, the type of foot traffic and potential for heavy loads directly impacts material choice and installation.

In these environments, the bond is constantly under stress. Emphasise the combination of adhesive and mechanical fasteners as the only reliable method. A well-bonded and screwed-down nosing or floor trim is less likely to become a tripping hazard or fail under repeated impact.

Conclusion

Mastering the installation of stair nosings and floor trims is what separates a good project from a great one. We hope this guide has provided you with the technical insights needed to handle various substrates and methods with confidence. However, no two projects are identical, and factors like extreme temperature, heavy traffic, or unique subfloor conditions demand a tailored approach.

As the manufacturer, our deep understanding of our profiles’ engineering and material properties allows us to provide specialised advice that a general guide cannot. We can help you navigate everything from selecting the right corrosion-resistant fasteners for an outdoor stairwell to recommending the most suitable adhesive for a high-moisture commercial setting.

Don’t leave the success of your installation to chance. Reach out to our technical team for expert guidance and support on your next project.